Discover the roots of Finnish food culture in Helsinki’s classic restaurants

Every city has its restaurants where history lingers in the air and nostalgia radiates from every detail. Restaurants that honour traditions and make you feel part of a continuum, untouched by fleeting trends. Restaurants that have remained nearly unchanged for decades – the ones you’d hope will never change. Food writer Timo Santala guides us to the roots of Helsinki’s culinary culture, taking us on a journey through the city’s most beloved classic restaurants.

Ateljé Finne in Helsinki Restaurant Sea Horse in Helsinki

Salmon soup, vorschmack, liver with lingonberry sauce and mashed potatoes, pyttipannu hash, läskisoosi meat stew, open-faced sandwiches, and other traditional dishes. And fried Baltic herring, of course – in all its variations by various chefs, competing for the title of the city’s finest. For dessert, you might find Lapland-style squeaky cheese served with cloudberry jam, or frozen cranberries with piping hot caramel sauce. Whatever Finnish classic graces your plate, one thing is for certain: all these restaurants share a long history and have earned a permanent place in the hearts of Helsinkians. 

In addition to respecting culinary traditions, many of these restaurants have preserved their interiors admirably. Paavo Tynell light fixtures and vintage Artek furniture offer diners an authentic time-travel experience through Finnish design and Art Nouveau interiors. The walls of these establishments have witnessed countless stories worth telling, as political and cultural elites, ordinary citizens, and dreamers alike have spent memorable evenings over the decades. It’s no wonder that so many Helsinkians have a strong emotional connection to these restaurants, with fond memories passed down from parent to child.

Savoy

One of Helsinki’s most elegant classic restaurants, Savoy, located on Eteläesplanadi, is a living piece of Finnish restaurant history and a must-visit for culinary enthusiasts. Architecture and design lovers will also delight in Savoy’s interior, designed by Alvar and Aino Aalto in 1937 and meticulously restored to its former glory in 2020. The design reflects the Aaltos’ love for clean lines, functional furniture, and high-quality natural materials.

Savoy has traditionally focused on Finnish classics, with dishes like Marshal Mannerheim’s favourite pike perch, vorschmack, reindeer fillet, and blinis with vendace roe often featured on the menu. The kitchen is managed by Helena Puolakka, who previously worked her magic in triple-Michelin-starred restaurants in London and Paris. Her craft shines through in her mastery of French cuisine. While European elegance is evident in the recipes as is the use of game birds, Savoy’s Finnish identity is showcased in its seasonal, locally sourced ingredients, from wild fish and crayfish to forest mushrooms and berries. 

Whether you’re enjoying Karesuvanto elk tartare with Piedmont winter truffle or guineafowl ballotine with Paltamo porcini mushrooms and blackcurrants, you can trust that every dish is lovingly prepared to the highest standard. Savoy also boasts one of Finland’s most extensive wine lists, offering vintage classics and intriguing novelties from European boutique producers.

Meiccu

Hidden away from the bustle of the city centre in the Meilahti district, Meiccu has been delighting food lovers in its unique functionalist setting since 1946. The wood-panelled interior graced with prestigious lighting designed by Paavo Tynell, exudes timeless elegance. During lunchtime, light filters beautifully through the stained-glass windows. The buffet offers hearty home-cooked fare such as smoked kassler and lamb meatballs, while the evening menu features classics like salmon soup, minute steak, pan-fried Baltic herring, and läskisoosi meat stew. Of course, no vorschmack is complete without a traditional Marskin ryyppy, or Mannerheim’s schnapps – just as the legendary military marshal himself enjoyed it. For dessert, go for the quintessential frozen cranberries with a pour-over of hot caramel.

Elite

Since 1932, Elite has been a beloved haunt of Helsinki’s cultural scene and artists, offering a classic Töölö-style functionalist atmosphere. The restaurant’s storied history includes wild dance parties and poetry evenings. Writer Mika Waltari frequented Elite, and Finnish film star Tauno Palo not only has a signature table but also a signature dish: creamy onion steak. The menu offers delights such as porcini mushrooms or snails in blue cheese and garlic butter to start, salmon soup or fried Baltic herring for a middle course, and charred Arctic char with lobster sauce or cognac-flamed fillet steak for the main. Elite also serves blinis with options like various roe types or reindeer mousse. For dessert, their crème brûlée is a favourite. The turquoise and orange decor is both timeless and welcoming, with changing art exhibitions gracing the walls alongside permanent glass artworks. Elite’s Sunday lunch is a cherished institution among regulars, and the restaurant remains a vibrant meeting place for Helsinki’s cultural and artistic elite.

Kosmos

Having reached the venerable age of 100, Kosmos has been a steadfast fixture in Helsinki’s restaurant scene since its opening during the prohibition in 1924. This family-run establishment is now in its fourth generation, and the team exudes long-time professionalism across the kitchen, dining room, and cloakroom. With carpeted floors, crystal chandeliers, dark wooden chairs, and intriguing Hellenic-themed wood reliefs adorning rounded booths, Kosmos boasts a uniquely personal atmosphere. Once frequented by businessmen, lawyers, and public officers in the 1930s, it became a hub for writers, artists, and leftist radicals in the 1960s. Even today, the walls are adorned with an eclectic selection of art.

Kosmos combines French culinary expertise with Russian and Swedish influences to create a true Helsinki institution. Dishes range from false morel soup to smoked reindeer tongue and slightly salted reindeer with balsamic cloudberries, or salmon pastrami with pickled mushrooms. Signature classics include steak tartare on toast with roe, smetana sour cream, and egg yolk, or the “Sylvester Sandwich au Gratin” served with false morel sauce. For dessert, try crêpes with homemade strawberry jam and whipped cream.

Messenius

Sometimes affectionately called the “Kosmos of Taka-Töölö,” Messenius, opened in 1937, shares much in common with Kosmos. Known as a favourite of bohemian cultural figures, writers, and politicians, this neighbourhood restaurant has hosted all kinds of events from theatre performances to musical evenings over the years. Chef and co-owner Nina Kaukonen, a passionate forager, ensures that mushrooms play a starring role on the menu year-round. In addition to trumpet chanterelle soup and chanterelle sauce, you might try the sea buckthorn-marinated salmon or rosemary-infused whitefish, or venison noisettes served with parmesan potatoes and juniper berry sauce. For dessert, the rhubarb and strawberry pie with vanilla sauce is a must. Messenius is also known for its exceptionally long blini season, allowing diners to enjoy the Russian-influenced delicacies as early as autumn – while many restaurants traditionally start serving these fluffy buckwheat pancakes with delicious savoury toppings only in January.

Sea Horse

The sea horses painted on the back wall welcome diners to Sea Horse, which has been a Helsinki institution since its opening in 1933. Once popular among sailors, the restaurant’s simple, elegant decor – and a solemn and humble atmosphere not unlike the films of Aki Kaurismäki – now attract visitors from far and wide. Over the years, Sea Horse has gained a devoted following among a wide variety of patrons, including luminaries, artists, and neighbourhood regulars. Legendary guests include Hanoi Rocks guitarist Andy McCoy, and HIM’s frontman Ville Valo, who undoubtedly fits into all the aforementioned categories. Even global icons like poet Pablo Neruda, philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre, and jazz musician Dizzy Gillespie have dined at Sea Horse. Gillespie, in particular, loved the fried Baltic herring so much that he finished not only his own portion but also those of his companions – and even fetched more from the kitchen. 

The menu at Sea Horse is a treasure trove of traditional Finnish classics, from onion steak to pepper steak, meatballs, and sautéed reindeer. For dessert, indulge in Lapland-style squeaky cheese with cloudberry jam, cinnamon, and cream. True to its reputation, an evening at Sea Horse often extends into the night over drinks, as has long been the custom.

More classics

For those looking for a slightly more rustic neighbourhood eatery atmosphere, Helsinki offers plenty of traditional no-frills restaurants serving classic dishes in a cosy atmosphere. Examples include Kannas, a former favourite of dockworkers; Cella, a beloved Kallio classic; Kolme Kruunua, boasting a stunning 1950s interior; Konstan Möljä, a restaurant with Karelian roots; and Salve, originally a sailors’ bar founded in 1897.

If you’re seeking a more refined yet tradition-respecting dining experience, you might try the understated charm of Lehtovaara, known for its Cœur de filet with garlic potatoes; Ateljé Finne, a former artist’s studio turned excellent neighbourhood restaurant; Töölö’s Kuu, a delightful neighbourhood bistro; the French-inspired classic Carelia; or Kappeli, the elegant glass-fronted restaurant overlooking Esplanadi Park.